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Abstract
Terroir is a word that carries powerful cultural
and sensory associations in France. Although
roughly translated a “taste of place,” terroir is more
difficult to translate as a cultural concept. Terroir
in France represents sensory qualities of food that
capture a dynamic engagement between people,
place and taste. This engagement can be seen in the
decisions made by individual food producers to craft
a product characteristic of their region. In France
this engagement also extends to a conversation
between those producing food and the regulators and
researchers charged with monitoring and promoting
specific products understood to have an exceptional
relationship to place. This cooperation between
multiple partners helps maintain an authentic sense
of terroir within the modern, global food system.
In both Québec and Vermont the provincial or
state governments have developed a keen interest
in the European investment in Protected Designation
of Origin (PDO) and Geographic Indications (GI). To
what extent could Vermont and Québec lead the
way in developing and protecting the first New World
produits du terroir with designations parallel to those
found in Europe? This essay compares the different
levels of engagement between product, practice and
place found in France, Québec and Vermont.